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destinations / south america / colombia

A Journey to Colombia's Lost City

Steve Jennifer
Updated: May 29, 2024

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If you dream of visiting Machu Picchu, consider an adventure off the beaten path. Embark on a multi-day hike to the extraordinary and lesser-known remnants of an ancient city. Tucked away in Colombia's Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta, Ciudad Perdida, also known as the "Lost City," predates Machu Picchu. Spanning about 80 acres, it attracts far fewer tourists. The Lost City trek blends nature and culture in an unforgettable journey, featuring refreshing swims in crystal-clear waters, sightings of rare hummingbirds and endangered monarch butterflies, interactions with indigenous communities, and peaceful moments in open-air hammocks.

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01. Discovery and Preservation Efforts

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Although indigenous groups like the Kogis always knew about the ruins, official discovery came in the 1970s when tomb raiders in Santa Marta stumbled upon the ancient city. Since then, organizations like the Colombian Institute of Anthropology and History and the Global Heritage Fund have collaborated with locals to preserve these archaeological treasures and protect the environment. Restoration efforts and visitor amenities have made the site safer and more accessible.

02. Explore the Ancient History of Ciudad Perdida

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Ciudad Perdida, or Teyuna, emerged around 700 C.E., making its oldest ruins over 1,300 years old. The Tayrona civilization continued building until the 14th century before the city was abandoned in the 16th century due to the Spanish arrival. As the capital of a powerful empire, Teyuna housed about 4,000 Tayrona people, with structures for religious ceremonies, work, and living quarters. Today, visitors can see hundreds of circular terraces that once supported homes. Steep stone steps, possibly designed to deter Spanish colonizers, lead down to the Buritaca River valley.

03. Getting Ready for the Adventure

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The hike starts and ends at El Mamey village, a 45-minute drive from Santa Marta. The Lost City is 3,772 feet above sea level, requiring some uphill walking. Preparing for this in the weeks before your trip is wise. The trek is moderately challenging, and while no special training or equipment is necessary, ascending 1,200 steps to reach the lower chambers of Teyuna requires determination. With the right mindset, you'll reach the top faster than you think.

04. Planning Your Trek

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Access to Ciudad Perdida is by foot only, and hiking requires booking through a trekking agency—about five authorized operators are available. The good news is that the trail is open to all ages and doesn't require months of advance booking. You can secure your spot online or in Santa Marta. The "Lost City" trek covers roughly 27 miles and takes 4 to 6 days, depending on the option chosen. A 4-day trek involves longer hiking days, while a 6-day trek offers a more relaxed pace, allowing for a more leisurely experience based on your fitness level.

05. Embracing in the Wilderness

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@embracingthewilderness
The Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta is a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve and boasts one of the world's most ecologically diverse coastal mountain ranges. With 630 bird species, birdwatchers will be thrilled. The region is home to giant toads, colorful lizards, tapirs, peccaries, howler monkeys, and even snakes, spiders, and jaguars. Despite some risks, the trail is a cherished tourism asset and is considered largely safe.

06. Day-by-Day Trek Overview

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The standard five-day trek includes stops at three campsites. Early starts help avoid the heat and afternoon rain, and makeshift walking sticks aid in balancing on the varied terrain. Horses, provided by the trekking company, carry food and supplies, allowing you to enjoy the scenery without extra weight. River crossings are part of the journey, with bridges and secure cages available when water levels are high. The trail is well-maintained, with few flat sections, and you'll spend about three hours exploring the Lost City on Day 4.

07. Marveling at Teyuna's Architecture

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Ciudad Perdida showcases impressive engineering. Stone residential spaces were built in circular formations with a diameter of about 27 feet. Roads and cobbled paths connected various sections of Teyuna, ensuring access to fields, plazas, and storehouses. The architecture skillfully prevented rainfall from causing erosion. Urban planning facilitated rainwater collection and control, and tall retaining walls provided land stability. Experts believe only a fraction of the ruins have been unearthed, with potential for more discoveries.

08. Cultural Encounters in Sierra Nevada

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Approaching Ciudad Perdida, you'll come across Kogi villages and meet members of the Wiwa, Arhuaco, and Kankuamo indigenous groups, who have lived in the area for generations. They honor their Tayrona roots through storytelling and traditional practices and often work in the local tourism industry. Recognized by UNESCO as Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity in 2022, their Ancestral System of Knowledge includes baptism rituals, marriage rites, offerings, caretaking of sacred sites, and cultural expressions of song and dance.

09. Benefits of Local Guides

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Local indigenous guides enrich the Lost City trek experience. Look for an operator that partners with locals, who can craft walking sticks, provide cultural and historical insights, and enhance your appreciation of the landscape. You'll learn about coca leaf chewing and gain confidence from their navigation tips and assurance about the wildlife you encounter.

10. Overcoming Trek Challenges

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The trail is open year-round, though maintenance occurs in September. The dry season from December to March is ideal for avoiding heavy rain. However, as a tropical jungle, Ciudad Perdida can be hot, humid, and rainy anytime. The occasional drizzle is refreshing, but be prepared for muddy conditions and stay hydrated. Mosquitoes can be bothersome, but wearing long pants and taking vitamin B supplements can help. A sleep sack is essential to protect against bugs.

11. Beyond the Trek

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Most treks start and finish in Santa Marta, Colombia's oldest colonial town. It's worth spending a few days here to explore its Caribbean charm. After your rainforest adventure, consider relaxing on a day trip. Visit the water villages of Ciénaga Grande, enjoy the underwater world at Playa Cristal, or catch some waves at Costeño Beach. Fans of Gabriel García Márquez can immerse themselves in his literary world by visiting Aracataca.

12. Sustainable Trekking Practices

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Ciudad Perdida is a prime example of sustainable tourism. Self-guided hikes are not allowed to ensure proper oversight. The campsites are locally owned, and the cooks and porters are typically local, ensuring that the money spent by trekkers benefits around 600 families from surrounding communities. Trekking operators facilitate meaningful exchanges between visitors and indigenous people, making sure that the treks are both profitable and environmentally sound. Visitors can contribute by minimizing waste, using eco-friendly toiletries like sunblock and insect repellent, and resisting the urge to take natural souvenirs.

13. An Experiential Reflection on the Trek

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Your trek to Ciudad Perdida offers a profound connection to nature and a chance to experience a slower pace of life. Reflect on the craftsmanship and traditions you witnessed, and consider incorporating more screen-free time into your routine. Think about the stories of your own ancestors and seize opportunities to converse with elders in your life. This journey can inspire a deeper appreciation for cultural heritage and natural beauty.

14. Capturing Memories

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When taking photos, always respect people's privacy and the sanctity of sacred sites. Ask for permission before photographing individuals, or consult your guide if there is a language barrier. Avoid exploitative documentation, aim for empowering and respectful images. Practically, leave the tripod at home but bring a dry sack to protect your camera gear from sudden rain showers.

15. Planning Your Return

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After experiencing Santa Marta and the Lost City, you might find yourself eager to explore more of Colombia. Make a list of places to visit or activities to try on your next trip while the memories are fresh. If the trek was particularly rewarding, consider similar adventures. Explore other notable Colombian hikes like Nevado del Tolima, Cocora Valley, Cueva del Esplendor, and El Pulpito Del Diablo. These are mostly long day hikes with stunning views. Alternatively, trek to Mirador in Guatemala to see one of the world's largest pyramids.

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